the Goulash formerly known as Gulyás
April 19th, 2012Gulyás is a traditional name for the cattle-herdsmen of Hungary and has come to represent a widely known and equally varied soup or stew more commonly referred to as Goulash. I can’t remember where I first encountered this rich beef stew but the most memorable experience was in Prague – capital of the Czech Republic – where a variation of Bohemian Gulyás reigns proudly as the national dish.
As parts of the current Czech Republic were once known as Austro-Hungarian Empire as far as I know this represents the most authentic version of Gulyás and is certainly one of the most basic in practise while the polar opposite in flavour. I’ve always liked hearty beef dishes but this one struck a cord. Immediately I was taking notes and upon return to Australia I set about reverse-engineering this to share with my mates. After collaborating many resources and through many experiments I have come to a recipe that is a fair representation of the Gulyás as I knew it in the beautiful golden city of Prague.
Rules as they told me:
-
No tomatoes! No exceptions!
-
Hungarian Paprika.
-
Large chunks of meat.
-
No thickeners; flour, potato or otherwise.
Of course, rules were meant to be broken. If you can’t find Hungarian Paprika use what you’ve got (careful with the hot stuff), supermarket steaks are already cut thin, and if you want potatoes or tomatoes in your stew then who’s stopping you? I have attempted to maintain authenticity as long as it does not impede practicality. I’ve used the methods and ingredients available and practical to achieve a taste and presentation as faithful as the original as I could manage, and if I don’t say so myself it’s pretty damn good!
I prefer not to use capsicums as they can quickly disperse the thick texture created by our Gulyás-style soffritto as it lacks a thickener. A wonderful synergy is created using beer originating from the same region as the dish and any substitution with local Pilsners should not be tolerated! If you can’t get a good Pilsener then try something dark and flavoursome.
Ingredients
-
1 European Pilsener beer (preferrably Czech)
-
2 onions
-
1 head of garlic
-
1 medium sized non-hot-pepper or equivalent (capsicum)
-
600g-800g side of a suitable stewing beef diced into 2cm cube
-
Lots of hungarian paprika
Direction
Preheat oven to 200.
Coat the meat generously & thickly in paprika and put in the oven for 15-20 minutes to brown.
In the meantime mince the onions, peppers and garlic either by hand or with a food processor. Heat a large pot and on a low heat gently fry these in oil for 10 minutes or until the meat is done. Remove the beef from the oven and along with any drippings tip these and the beer into the pot. Top up with water, beer or stock as necessary til the beef is just covered and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Simmer for at least an hour or until the meat is so soft it’s unbearable not to eat, the sauce should be the consistency of a runny tomato paste and about the same colour.
This is usually accompanied with potato rosti but you could just as easily use some other potato cake, mashed potato or a good sturdy bread.

